I fell in love with Viking’s Ocean fleet when I first stepped aboard Viking Orion in 2018. Although we only had time for a short inspection, I immediately felt at home & told others I could happily live on one of these ships. The clean, simple Scandinavian design set these ships apart – no brightly coloured carpets or noisy casino, just plenty of light, bright, comfortable spaces throughout the ship. I knew that the welcoming, home-away-from-home feeling would appeal to anyone lucky enough to cruise on this fleet of sister ships.
Having been so impressed by Viking’s ocean ships, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to experience Viking Polaris & sail to Antarctica – my final continent.
My first impression of the Polaris was the abundance of open, light-filled spaces, with floor-to-ceiling glass wherever possible. Whether I was in The Living Room, Explorers’ Lounge, Library, Aquavit Terrace each comfortable space was open to expansive views. You could even enjoy the view from The Hide, The Pools, The Nordic Spa & various other quiet spaces around the ship. My cousin joined me on this once-in-a-lifetime journey. She was even more amazed by the Viking Polaris than I was – having only cruised on one local P&O cruise about a decade earlier.
We were both further WOW-ed by our Deluxe Balcony cabin, especially its Nordic Balcony – a distinctive feature of every cabin on Viking’s expedition ships. This interior living area has floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing views from the moment you step into the cabin. Rather than a fixed window or a door to an exterior balcony, you get the benefits of both. At the touch of a button, the upper window lowers to let the outside in. The leaning-height shelf created when the top window was dropped provided a steady place to rest my elbows while taking photos or scanning for wildlife using the Viking binoculars.
The remarkable cabin features did not end there. Beside the spacious wardrobe was our own drying closet. This Norwegian-inspired feature allowed us to store our expedition gear provided by Viking in the cabin & dry it all between adventures. Our gorgeous, spacious bathroom also had heated floors, which provided a handy place to dry our gloves & beanies between trips out on the Zodiacs.
Being able to store our expedition gear in our cabin meant that we could fully prepare for each off-ship excursion in private. We shared plenty of belly laughs in our cabin before & after each excursion, as we pulled on (or peeled off) the many layers needed for comfortable time outdoors.
Just when we thought we had the process down pat, we both kept doing something wrong! We found ourselves zipping up an outer layer before putting on everything underneath, forgetting something essential & having to undress once again, or my daily struggle that was removing my boots.
When we timed things to perfection, we would head down in the lifts five minutes before we were due to head off on an adventure. We just needed to pull on our gloves & sunglasses at the last minute.
It was an exhausting process, but I am just happy that we were not entertaining the other passengers in the process – as we would have on most other expedition ships.
The Viking Expedition team was exceptional. Daily briefings kept us well informed & prepared for every eventuality. They told us when to be up for our first glimpse of ice, and had hot drinks & snacks waiting at The Bow, allowing us to enjoy the moment together.
The team also made it very clear that safety was the top priority & that our itinerary could change with the weather, particularly the wind. Strong winds often bring rough seas, which can make Zodiac landings uncomfortable or even unsafe. During our week on the Antarctic Peninsula, one landing was cancelled & several landing sites changed. None of these adjustments diminished our experience though. The alternatives offered an equally memorable variety of encounters – lively penguin colonies, amusing seal encounters, afternoons with almost too many whales to count, and beautiful sunny days surrounded by crackling ice.
Viking’s expedition ships are designed for easy access to the Zodiacs. After a short wait with the other passengers in our departure group, we descended a short flight of stairs in groups of up to eight. Two tender doors on each side of the ship provided direct access to the Zodiacs. Using a sailor’s grip (wrist-to-wrist), we stepped safely into the Zodiac & set off. One day, it was just two of us in the Zodiac, along with the driver.
When we were heading ashore, the Zodiac drivers delivered us to the Expedition team, who had already inspected & secured the landing site. The team checked the penguin colonies for signs of bird flu & marked walking routes, so that we could explore while minimising disturbance to the wildlife. The team was on hand during our landings, able to explain what we were seeing & answering all of our questions. They also made sure that we didn’t get closer than 5 metres from the penguins & kept a safe distance from the seals. Although it appears that nobody bothered to mention these restrictions to the inquisitive penguins!
Several of our excursions did not involve a landing. To get more out of these cruises, one of the 23 Expedition team members drove the Zodiacs. This meant that they chose our course according to the conditions & by what there was to discover on the day. Having these experts guide us through the Antarctic Peninsula waters was invaluable, as they brought the landscape & wildlife to life.
Along with Zodiac excursions, we also had one trip out on a Special Operations Boats. This fast, military-designed boats took us further from the ship in comfort. Each Viking Expedition ship has two of these unique boats. They are designed for exploration from the water thought & are not used for landings. Quietvox wireless headphones allowed the Expedition leaders to reach everyone onboard without having to yell.
Despite my concerns, we also decided to give Antarctic kayaking a go. After the safety briefing, I chose to head down to The Hangar to practise climbing from the Zodiac into the kayak – and more importantly, back again. My arms are unusually short, so I was worried that I would not be able to haul myself out of the kayak while out on the water. Although my cousin took some very unflattering photos of my attempt, the practice gave me the confidence to go ahead.
Manoeuvring our double kayak through the pristine waters in a small group, guided by our kayak leader was an incredible experience. Being at water level, surrounded by towering icy cliffs & glaciers was breath-taking. It was so quiet! The only sounds were the paddles & some light rain splashing into the water, and then the squawks & other calls of the Gentoo penguin colonies that we spent a good amount of time observing.
We decided not to take a trip in either of the two submersibles on board (George & Ringo), but we spoke with others who did. Experiences varied – some saw little that interested them, while others found themselves surrounded by pink & red swarms of krill. In one bay, the submersibles had to return to the ship early because the sheer volume of krill was clogging essential equipment. This did mean that those of us who remained on the ship were treated to the spectacular sight of (almost too many) pods of humpback whales, who spent the afternoon bubble-net feeding on millions of the tiny crustaceans.
Viking describes itself as “The Thinking Person’s Cruise”, offering experiences created for curious travellers—an approach that was clearly evident aboard Viking Polaris. Throughout the day, members of the Expedition team were available at Expedition Central, generously sharing their expertise & answering our questions. The enrichment program also featured lectures on the marine mammals in Antarctic waters, the importance of the krill on which many of them rely, the fascinating history of Antarctica’s intrepid early explorers, and even the continent’s geology.
We could watch the lectures on the TV in our cabin or attend them in person in the Aula, one of the most impressive theatre spaces I have encountered on any ship. Its floor-to-ceiling windows offered sweeping views over the wake as we cruised. During lectures & daily briefings, a projection screen was lowered across the windows, so that videos, maps & photos could enhance the presentations.
On selected evenings, Expedition team members offered a more personal perspective, sharing Expedition Stories from their polar experiences in the more intimate setting of The Hide – a hidden space on Deck 1 right towards the front of the ship. This was one of my favourite spaces on the Polaris.
Science is at the heart of Viking Expedition Cruises. Throughout the Antarctic season, Viking hosts international researchers conducting critical environmental experiments. This vital research covers a wide range of fields, including phytoplankton distribution, marine mammal populations, sea temperature fluctuations, and microplastic pollution.
The Expedition team’s knowledge was impressive, but it was the service staff who made the greatest impression on me. From our cabin stewards to the waitstaff, every crew member made an effort to bring a smile to my face. After asking our names once, they remembered & used them whenever our paths crossed. I am awful & had to rely on their name tags!
The thoughtful service continued throughout the ship. Our cabin stewards replenished our favourite drinks & snacks that we enjoyed from the minibar daily – removing the items that we didn’t seem to like. Restaurant staff remembered what we liked to drink with our meals, while the bar staff all knew my favourite cocktails. Everyone offered recommendations with confidence & welcomed our feedback.
I remember hearing from a fellow passenger who felt obliged to write something on the feedback form provided after our first few days at sea. With nothing to complain about, they mentioned a very minor issue they had noticed on board. Before long, Guest Relations called to apologise & ask how the situation could be improved. The passenger had not intended to complain at all – they had simply wanted something to write on the form!
One aspect of life on board that certainly inspired no complaints was the food. We burned a lot of calories just putting all our layers on & off a couple of times a day. By the time we were back in a single layer of clothing, we had worked up a decent appetite. We were spoiled for choice at every mealtime, with an impressive variety of fresh & delicious food.
We especially enjoyed the variety at the World Café, where the choices ranged from freshly baked pretzels to sushi made fresh at every meal, and I can’t forget to mention the steaks & burgers grilled right in front of us. The soups & salads were equally appealing. I was also a sucker for the delicious chocolate chip cookies on offer throughout the day.
It was also hard to resist Mamsen’s, home to Viking’s famous waffles made from a family recipe, as well as delicious open-faced sandwiches & other tempting treats.
Before sailing, I reserved a table at The Restaurant for our first evening, as we cruised through the Beagle Channel. The enticing menu lived up to its promise. Some chose to dine here every evening, but we only ended up having one experience. I had also booked Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant for my cousin’s birthday towards the end of our cruise. I was able to move the celebration to the Private Dining room, so that we could share it with friends we had made on board. As we had not yet visited Manfredi’s, I opted for its menu to be served & we all enjoyed a wonderful Italian feast.
Fortunately, there were also plenty of opportunities to walk laps of the Promenade Deck. The route included a flight of stairs down to Deck 4 past the front of the Explorers’ Lounge & then a climb back up. On one particularly beautiful morning, I clocked up 10,000 steps while taking in the stunning scenery of the surrounding bay. Check out my Instagram reel to see just how hazardous walking around the deck got while we were crossing the Drake – it was windy!
Speaking of the Drake Passage, crossing this notorious stretch of water is the source of anxiety for most people thinking about an Antarctic Expeidtion. I have to admit, I was a little nervous myself – not because of seasickness, but because I had no idea how I would handle the legendary, massive swells. As it turns out, I was actually a bit disappointed! Both of our crossings were pretty calm—more like a slightly shaky lake (3-6m swells), and the cutting-edge design & technology onboard the Viking Polaris definitely took the sting out of the larger swells we encountered. Don’t get me wrong, I’d never wish a brutal “Drake Shake” on anyone, but surviving the rough seas is all part of the experience of an Antarctic Expedition.
Although both Viking Expedition ships carry up to 378 passengers, I never felt like the Polaris was “too big” for the experience. Although the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) restricts the size of ships to a maximum of 500 passengers & strictly limit the number of guests who can be ashore at one time to 100, our landings never felt rushed to accommodate other passengers. We averaged two excursions a day, which was just right for me.
While smaller ships definitely have their advantages, I would very happily recommend either vessel in Viking’s current expedition fleet for an Antarctic voyage. I also can’t wait to see what their next generation of Expedition ships being launched in 2030 & 2031 have to offer!
I can honestly say that I could have spent the entire cruise on the ship, taking advantage of all that floor-to-ceiling glass! There really aren’t enough superlatives to describe the breath-taking scenery of the Antarctic Peninsula. From massive icebergs to sheer ice cliffs, bright white glaciers meeting the dark ocean, indescribable shades of blue, and jagged peaks towering over everything. Every day was so different. You can truly only understand how special it is by experiencing this pristine part of the world.
Thank you for an unforgettable expedition, Viking Expedition Cruises. Words will never be able to portray the sheer beauty & majesty of my first experience of Antarctica. I took so many photos & videos, even though I made myself put my phone down on most days. There were so many times that I just wanted take in the experience. One thing is certain – if I have the chance – I will return to this extraordinary destination again (& again). 🐧 Christie
I would have loved to “adopt” a penguin & smuggle it home with me. Despite the smell, they were just so damn cute. Check out my Facebook & Instagram accounts to see videos of them that I uploaded as I travelled. They’re sure to make you smile!
The seals were pretty cute too… and really loved to pose. Can you pick the “smiling” seal? The professional looking shots were taken by fellow guests onboard. The Viking Expedition team set up a sharing portal for everyone to be generous with their best photos while onboard.
Whales are hard to capture on film, especially on a phone! Luckily other guests had cameras with lenses the length of your arm… and more patience too! Most of my whale “photos” are captured in my memory & my heart.
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